Niacinamide vs Hyaluronic Acid

We think niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are both a little misunderstood. Despite their immense popularity, many people don’t know what to expect from them. Because of that, they don’t necessarily see the results they expect when starting to use them. Plus, if you don’t really know what they can do, how can you decide which one to use, or how to incorporate them into your routine? 

In this post, we’ll compare and contrast niacinamide vs hyaluronic acid, with the simple goal of helping you understand both ingredients a little better. 

Niacinamide summarized

We think of niacinamide as the skincare world’s do-it-all ingredient. It’s a form of vitamin B3 that impacts a few different skin processes, to improve the appearance of the skin on just about every front. 

It can reduce surface oiliness and pore size for those with oily skin, while for those with dry skin, it stimulates the production of important barrier lipids (i.e., the oily, non-sebum compounds within the skin that prevent dehydration). This unique vitamin also helps prevent signs of aging, reduce discoloration, and boost skin resilience. 

However, niacinamide is a mild ingredient. Newcomers to skincare are often disappointed when they don't see a big change after adding it to their routine. It's best to think of it as a slow and steady ingredient that offers mild balance and improvement. 

Hyaluronic acid summarized 

At this point, most people know to associate hyaluronic acid with hydration. It’s a lovely humectant (especially high molecular weight hyaluronic acid) that exists in the skin naturally. It attracts water to the skin from the air, from the skincare it's formulated in, and from lower levels of the skin. 

It offers the skin a nearly immediate hydrating effect, helping to plump up and hydrate the skin. In the short term, it helps to minimize fine lines and may even have some anti-aging effects. On its own, hyaluronic acid isn’t great at preventing moisture evaporation, so it’s important to use it in combination with occlusive moisturizing ingredients that seal water into the skin. 

Niacinamide vs hyaluronic acid for major skin concerns 

Looking for a quick overview? Here’s a summary of our comparison of niacinamide vs hyaluronic acid. 

Similarities between niacinamide and hyaluronic acid 

Before we dive deep into the differences, you should know the similarities between niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. These similarities make hyaluronic acid and niacinamide very compatible, but they’re not so similar that they make one or the other ingredient redundant. Both are well worth having in your skincare routine! 

• Both ingredients are beneficial for all skin types
• They can help with dryness and dehydration (but in very different ways) 
• They have some anti-aging properties (again, in different ways)
• They’re compatible with many other skincare ingredients and are easy to add to many different types of formulas 
• Both are frequently used in serums, creams, and toners, but are best only used in one product in your routine

For dryness and dehydration

Hyaluronic acid is the better ingredient for short-term hydration. It has an immediate hydrating and plumping effect since it attracts water to the skin. It’s important to combine it with other moisturizing ingredients, such as the fatty acids in the Protocol Renewing Cream or the powerful, non-greasy occlusive membrane in the Protocol Water Lock. 

Niacinamide is ideal for countering long-term dehydration, dryness, and skin barrier issues. It doesn’t work immediately, but with regular use, it encourages the skin to produce more ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids which are important skin barrier components, helping to prevent transepidermal water loss. It’s a powerful long-term solution for skin that often looks dry, flakey, or dehydrated.  

For oily skin

Between these two ingredients, niacinamide has some major benefits for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Hyaluronic acid, while not offering any specific benefits, is simply a solid and safe ingredient in your lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizing products. 

So what can niacinamide do for you? Its most impressive effect is its ability to actively reduce surface-level oiliness, likely as a result of its conversion to niacin once applied to the skin. Other studies have shown that it can help reduce acne breakouts, likely through a combination of its oil-controlling and skin-soothing capabilities. Fighting acne is a complex process and niacinamide is quite mild on this front, but it’s a wonderful complement to other acne-fighters in your routine.  

For sensitivity 

Finding skincare for sensitive skin can be difficult since you need to balance the efficacy of your products with the risk that they’ll irritate your skin. 

Hyaluronic acid is generally considered safe for sensitive skin, and its hydrating effects can help alleviate irritation caused by dehydration. While high molecular weight hyaluronic acid does have some anti-inflammatory properties, it can’t penetrate the skin as effectively as niacinamide. More penetrative low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid has the potential to irritate. 

Some users also report experiencing irritation from over-using hyaluronic acid, although there is little explanation behind this in the scientific literature. Some dermatologists and skincare experts (including our Protocol Lab team) theorize that using hyaluronic acid in arid climates may also compromise the skin. 

Niacinamide shows more straightforward skin-soothing properties that make it a phenomenal option for those with sensitive skin, especially around a 5% concentration. Studies show it can alleviate the skin’s reaction to irritation from external sources like sun exposure and pollution. 

That said, some users report irritation with high-niacinamide formulas. While studies show that it has many skin benefits and no side effects at 2%-5% concentration, there are many 10% formulas out there that occasionally irritate. 

For anti-aging 

Finally, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are both popular for anti-aging — perhaps more popular than they need to be. If you’re looking to reduce or prevent premature aging signs like fine lines, wrinkles, and skin laxity, nothing will outperform a complete renewing routine with a retinoid in the evening, vitamin C and sunscreen in the daytime, and a few other supportive ingredients. 

That said, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide can still help. Niacinamide, especially, can boost the lifecycle of skin cells. It also has antioxidant properties, so it can help prevent some of the external damage that causes skin degradation (although not to the same extent as vitamin C). 

Evidence for the long-term anti-aging benefits of topical hyaluronic acid is limited, but it can offer a noticeable short-term improvement. By delivering moisture to the outer layer of the skin, it can make it look a little firmer with a visible but temporary reduction in the appearance of fine lines. 

For discoloration 

Dealing with dark spots? Niacinamide is a worthy add-on to your routine, as it can help correct discoloration by disrupting a few of the steps in the hyperpigmentation process. Combining it with other skin-renewing ingredients (especially vitamin C, AHA, and retinol) will help you achieve clearer, more even-toned skin sooner, but it can also work on its own. 

Hyaluronic acid isn’t known to help with discoloration, although its hydrating effect can increase the skin’s reflectiveness, to create brighter, glowier skin. 

Is it better to use hyaluronic acid or niacinamide?

If it’s between one or the other, take the needs of your skin into account. Are you prone to dehydration, and need something that’ll reverse it quickly while plumping up your skin a little? That’s when hyaluronic acid shines. That said, you can find other great humectants that hydrate similarly, like glycerin and panthenol. 

Are you looking for a general boost to your skincare routine with an ingredient that amps up other skin-renewing, soothing, or acne-fighting products? That's where niacinamide wins. Don't expect extreme or immediate changes because it takes a slow and steady approach to impacting the skin. 

FAQ

Should I use a niacinamide serum or hyaluronic acid serum? 

We like our skincare routines quick and targeted, so our answer is neither. Save that precious serum spot for powerful ingredients that need help to get into the skin. 

Both hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are easygoing ingredients that are easiest to use in a moisturizer. If you would like to add one of them in a serum format, however, we think you should opt for a hyaluronic acid serum, for simple hydration. Serums with niacinamide usually contain too much, sometimes leading to skin irritation, so we think they’re best avoided altogether. 

Can I use hyaluronic acid and niacinamide together?

Yes, you can use niacinamide with hyaluronic acid! You can even use them in the same product. Our Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Renewing Cream contains 2% high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and 5% niacinamide for optimal skin hydration and cell activity boost. 

What should you not mix niacinamide with?

Niacinamide is an easy-going ingredient that pairs well with many other skincare ingredients. You can layer niacinamide with acids or other active ingredients in your routine.  

In some cases, you may want to avoid using niacinamide immediately after a vitamin C product (especially if both are water-based) as that may cause some facial flushing in the short term. That said, this hasn’t been an issue when layering our Niacinamide Renewing Cream with the Protocol Vitamin C Superserum.  

Is niacinamide drying or hydrating?

Niacinamide isn’t exactly drying or hydrating. The best way to think of it is as a long-term balancing ingredient. You may not notice much of a difference in the short term, but over time, it can help your skin produce barrier-repairing lipids that function deeper within the skin while suppressing the production of surface-level oils that make your skin feel greasy. 

Is niacinamide or hyaluronic acid better for hyperpigmentation?

Niacinamide is better for hyperpigmentation since it helps to suppress melanosome transfer. Pairing it with other ingredients that reduce discoloration, like vitamin C or retinoids, will help speed things along. Hyaluronic acid on its own has not been found to impact hyperpigmentation. 

At what age should I use niacinamide?

Niacinamide is great from the teen years onwards. Its skin soothing and balancing action can help with redness and breakouts from any age, and it’s mild enough to be safe even for young users. We recommend starting with evidence-based products with lower niacinamide percentages.  

Why pick when you can have both? 

The reality is that both niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are fantastic and stable ingredients. This means they’re easy to use together — especially within the same product, like in our Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide Renewing Cream. 

We developed this moisturizer to get you the most out of both ingredients, while also boosting the efficacy of your other products. It contains optimal amounts of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, for long-term better skin functions and short-term hydration. A few choice, lightweight occlusives help to seal in moisture and create a smoother skin surface, for immediately nourished skin and a healthier barrier in the long term.