How to Layer Niacinamide and Acid in Your Skincare Routine

Putting together a skincare routine can feel like a puzzle, especially when single-ingredient products like niacinamide serums force you into complex multi-step routines. Niacinamide is one of the most versatile and useful skincare ingredients, but trying to layer it with other products can leave you scratching your head. If you’ve found yourself researching how to layer niacinamide with acids, this post is for you.  

Whether you’re aiming for plump, hydrated skin with hyaluronic acid, or to clear away blemishes by layering niacinamide with salicylic acid, this complete layering guide covers it all. 

How niacinamide works in skincare

Before diving in, here’s a quick summary of how niacinamide works and why you may want to include it in your skincare routine.  

Niacinamide is the skincare world’s “do-it-all” ingredient. It’s very gentle and even has skin-soothing effects. It helps with everything from acne and large pores to dark spots to signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles. It even helps the skin produce more of its natural protective lipids, to counter dryness and dehydration. 

Niacinamide delivers noticeable, research-backed results without being overly intense. Its gentle nature makes it an excellent companion to more potent skin-renewing, acne-fighting, or anti-aging ingredients, such as acids.

Another wonderful thing about niacinamide is that it’s very stable, so you can fit it into your skincare routine any way you want. Whether you use it in a cream or serum won’t change its overall efficacy, and you can use it in the day or night. 

Studies show that niacinamide is incredibly effective at around a 5% concentration. In the last decade or so, 10% niacinamide serums have become incredibly popular despite not necessarily offering better results but potentially being more irritating. 

What acids do in skincare 

Acids are ingredients with a low pH, and there are a lot of different things they can do in skincare. As researchers and dermatologists know well, healthy skin naturally has an acidic pH level, so some acids in skincare don’t do anything dramatic. Hyaluronic acid is a good example, as (despite its reputation), most experts agree that it’s a simple hydrating agent. 

The more impactful acids in skincare are usually exfoliants, like glycolic or salicylic acid. These acids have a much lower pH, which dissolves the lipid bonds that connect skin cells to each other, causing them to shed. Vitamin C in its most impactful form is an acid called ascorbic acid. It’s not an exfoliant, but it still needs to have a low pH environment to effectively brighten and protect the skin.

In most cases, these acids are best applied directly to the skin, without any other products underneath. Applying them on top of anything else will slow down their rate of absorption, and impede their action.

Can you mix niacinamide and acids?

Considering the majority of effective ingredients in skincare are technically acids, you can definitely combine niacinamide with acids in your skincare routine. You can layer most acids with niacinamide as part of the same skincare session, and they can even be in the same product!  

Note that when we say mix, we’re not suggesting you do it literally. It’s much better to layer skincare ingredients like niacinamide and acids separately, either as part of a single skincare “session” (allowing each layer to sink in completely before moving on to the next) or separated between day and night.  

If you’d like to combine niacinamide and a certain acidic ingredient into a single step, you might be better off searching for a product that already contains both ingredients and is optimized to make the most out of them. 

How to layer niacinamide and different acids 

As a rule, it’s usually best to apply your acid product first, then niacinamide. In some cases, the order may also depend on the product textures. When in doubt, follow these steps: 

• Step 1: Cleanse your skin and leave it damp
• Step 2: Apply your acid-based product and let it absorb completely 
• Step 3: Apply your niacinamide product (ideally a moisturizer) 
• Step 4: Apply sunscreen if it’s daytime 

But to get more specific, here’s what to keep in mind when layering niacinamide with different types of acids, including hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, ascorbic acid, and more! 

Niacinamide and hyaluronic acid

Layering hyaluronic acid and niacinamide is dead simple and offers the skin a lot of moisture benefits. That’s why we just went ahead and combined them in our Niacinamide & Hyaluronic Acid Renewing Cream! Neither ingredient is temperamental or likely to irritate the skin. 

Start with whichever product has a thinner, more liquid texture. If both are serums, it’s usually better to start with hyaluronic acid for hydration. Then, follow it up with barrier-repairing niacinamide. 

Niacinamide and AHA (i.e., glycolic or lactic acids)

When layering niacinamide with alpha-hydroxy acid (AHAs) like glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acids, always start with the acid-based product.  

These exfoliating acids need to sit on the surface of the skin for at least a few minutes to break down the bond between skin cells and help them shed, so it’s even better to apply your AHA, wait a few minutes, and only then apply your niacinamide-based product. If your skin can tolerate it, it’s also okay if there are a few more steps in between, like a topical retinoid or another acid-based product.  

To cut away all of the confusion, one of the easiest ways to exfoliate is while also washing your face, like with our Double AHA and Aloe Cleanser. Apply it to damp skin, leave it on for a few minutes, and then rinse away. 

Niacinamide and BHA (i.e., salicylic acid) 

Layer your niacinamide after applying salicylic acid. Salicylic acid (often referred to as beta-hydroxy acid or BHA) is a gentle exfoliant with oil-soluble effects, so it’s ideal for those with congested or oily skin. As with AHA, it works best when applied directly to the skin and allowed to sit for a few minutes before you apply your niacinamide-based product. 

Niacinamide and ascorbic acid (i.e. vitamin C)

Using both niacinamide and vitamin C can be a little tricky. Vitamin C in its most effective format is also known as ascorbic acid, and it’s most effective at a low pH level. Layering niacinamide directly over ascorbic acid can sometimes convert the niacinamide into nicotinic acid, which can lead to facial flushing or redness. 

This is why some sources recommend using one product in the daytime (ideally vitamin C, since it’s a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental damage when used in the daytime) and the other at night. 

However, this issue is more likely to occur when pairing two serums. If you’re using our highly potent Protocol Vitamin C Superserum with a 10% niacinamide serum, then we recommend splitting them. 

On the other hand, if you’re using a gentler 2%-5% niacinamide formulated as a moisturizer like our Renewing Cream, then you probably won’t notice any issues layering the vitamin C serum first, followed by the moisturizer. 

Niacinamide and azelaic acid 

For those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea, the combination of niacinamide and azelaic acid can be very soothing. Azelaic acid is a weak acid that’s not very pH dependent, so the two ingredients are compatible and you can even find products that contain both. 

If you’re using two separate products, the primary thing to consider is texture. If you’re using a niacinamide serum and an azelaic acid cream then niacinamide should be layered first. On the other hand, if both products are in a cream format, it makes sense to start with the azelaic acid and to layer the niacinamide cream on second. 

Niacinamide and retinoic acid

If you have a retinoid in your routine, you’re way ahead of the curve — it’s the ultimate anti-aging ingredient. 

Of the various retinoids used in skincare, retinoic acid is the only one that’s referred to as an “acid,” although it is not pH dependent. In some cases, applying retinoic acid directly to the skin can be quite irritating, in which case you can use a niacinamide serum or moisturizer to slow down its rate of absorption.  

On the other hand, if you’re using a gentler cosmetic retinoid serum like retinol or retinal, you’re better off maximizing the anti-aging effects by applying it directly to the skin, and following up with the niacinamide. 

Niacinamide FAQ

What should I layer first, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide?

It doesn’t matter too much, but most sources recommend applying hyaluronic acid first. 

How to layer vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide​?

If you’re using all three of these wonderful ingredients, always start by applying the vitamin C serum to clean, damp skin. Let it sink in completely before applying the hyaluronic acid followed by the niacinamide. 

What should I apply before and after niacinamide?

Niacinamide isn’t finicky at all, so what you apply before and after depends on your complete skincare routine. In general, niacinamide makes the most sense towards the end of your routine, after you’ve applied any acids or other active ingredient-based serums. If using it in the daytime, make sure to apply sunscreen afterward. 

What to layer on top of niacinamide?

If your niacinamide product is a serum, make sure to apply a moisturizer on top of it. In the daytime, always finish with an SPF. If you’re using a niacinamide product like our Renewing Cream at night, it can be your last skincare step! 

Niacinamide layering is easy, but the Renewing Cream makes it easier

When creating a skincare routine, think of niacinamide as the magical “free space” item that fits in anywhere. Unlike acids, which are best applied directly to clean skin, niacinamide can fit anywhere in the middle or end of each skincare session. 

Keep this in mind when shopping for niacinamide products, as well. Instead of loading up with several serum steps, it’s much easier to layer on niacinamide with acids when it’s a moisturizer like our Renewing Cream!